|On the cover|
Tunnelling Towards Hope
|28 February - 6 March 2014|
A Stronghold of Rulers and Rebels
With the recent death toll jumping to nearly 100 and 1,000 injured, Hrushevskoho Street, one of the strongholds of EuroMaidan’s three-month-long protests, made headlines around the globe. It was here, on 19 January the country’s stand against government corruption, abuse of power, and the violation of human rights turned from peaceful protest to all-out revolution. Having witnessed much over the years, Hrushevskoho is a street with a history, and not only care of recent days.
Acelebrity using their status and intelligence to influence public views and opinion is rarely seen in modern society, even less so in Ukraine. Here, the majority of celebs use their time, effort, and money to enhance or further their career rather than put their name to something that can do good for others. However, as EuroMaidan intensifies, some are making themselves heard – and they fall either side of the EuroMaidan divide.
It used to be that when rebellion and revolution occurred, the intellectual, creative, and spiritual elite would be front and centre.
When Walls Can Talk
People have been writing on walls since the dawn of civilisation, we call it graffiti, and ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings. Sometimes it is merely the creator wanting to leave his or her mark; sometimes there is an underlying social or political reason. And it is due to the latter that graffiti has exploded across Kyiv in recent months. Anti dictator messages aside, we peel back a few layers of paint to look at graffiti in the city in general.
|It has been a fixture on the fashion calendar for 16 years – Ukrainian Fashion Week. Since its inception, it has become recognised as a barometer of the latest trends in the capital Kyiv and wider Ukraine. Anna Bublik has taken her place among the names since 2002 and is one of the most in-demand Ukrainian designers both locally and abroad. What’s On goes inside her show-room to watch fashion week preparations and take a sneak-peek at the designer’s autumn/winter 2013–2014 collection.
Anna Bublik is such a well-respected name in Ukrainian fashion the chance to see the space where she creates fills me with excitement. Arriving at her work-shop, close to Verkhovna Rada, my excitement builds. The place is decked out in vintage antique furniture, huge mirrors, oil-paintings and a piano and it positively oozes class and refinement, which tells me a lot about the designer herself. However the décor is merely a compliment to the main attraction – clothes, footwear and accessories. Each item invites me to take a closer look, to touch and feel – and in doing so I can see attention-to-detail is one of Bublik’s hallmarks – even hairpins are mini masterpieces!
From Sketch to Catwalk
Her new autumn-winter collection is dominated by muted colours, pale-beige, ivory, accents of terracotta and smoky-gray; the texture is soft, with knitted elements which don’t overload a tailored silhouette. Bublik tells me the inspiration for this collection came from an old Slavic fairytale Morozko. “I was particularly inspired by an old screen version of the fairytale. The models on the catwalk will wear original fur head bandages decorated with embroidery. The main look of the collection will be quite wearable.” Another facet of the collection is the scarves – Bublik shows me examples of smoky-purple and violet where natural silk is combined with felted details– the designer says these items are especially produced in Kyrgyzstan as felting is their traditional handicraft.
Speaking about clothing-design, Bublik says she draws more than 200 sketches – a creative process needing only pencil and paper with her ideas being the limit. However, time is a different story. “It takes nearly a month-and-a-half to create a collection – from the start to the finish, or cat-walk ready, but there’s parallel work in terms of choosing fabric, pairing it with footwear and accessories, casting models and so on.” The final stage is music selection and visuals. “The moment I love most of all is when I see the models standing ready to go a minute before taking to the catwalk – I see them and understand that a good job has been done,” Bublik says.
Fashion as a Mission
The fashion show is just a taste of what comes next. Immediately afterwards buyers start negotiating with Bublik and within months items from the collection are distributed across Ukraine and abroad. The latter is where Bublik’s present priorities lie and she plans to open boutiques in Vienna and Moscow soon. The Fashion House of Anna Bublik has, in little more than 10 years, amassed 5,000 clients including top Ukrainian political figures and celebrities. Of course, as a name grows, prices follow and Bublik’s creations command a premium – a classical evening dress can cost between 3,000 and 7,000hrv, her line of men’s suits are more expensive – labour costs alone are from 8,000 to 12,000hrv plus the cost of fabric. Despite this, Bublik says it’s cheaper than an Italian suit and of equal quality.
Bublik closely oversees every aspect of her fashion empire with the same attention-to-detail she applies to her creations – from design to finances. The fashion world is more dog-eat-dog than people imagine, she says, and newcomers often have romantic notions. “I’m teaching at the University of Culture and the first thing I ask students is ‘why do you want to be a designer?’” Bublik says. “They think it is all catwalks, photo-shoots and glossy magazines. To me, fashion is a kind of mission – I and other young designers, fashion bloggers and journalist all have a responsibility to make Ukraine a beautiful and stylish country.”
32nd Ukrainian Fashion Week
Mystetskiy Arsenal (Lavrska 10-12)
Visit www.fashionweek.ua/en for more details
16.00 UFW & ELLE Ukraine present Accessories Retrospective
18.00 Victoria Gres
19.00 Vorozhbyt & Zemskova
22.00 Nadya Dzyak
15.00 Olga Timkova-Lyakhovska
18.00 Anna Bublik
19.00 Elena Burenina
20.30 Artem Klimchuk
21.30 DS’Dress by Alonova
15.00 Fresh Fashion: Cyan Victoria Panyukova, Lia Sin, Sunamy by Sukhanova
16.00 Fresh Fashion: Kseniya Mamedova, Jean Gritsfeldt
17.30 Ksenia Kireeva
18.30 Olena Dats’
19.30 Kamenska Kononova
21.30 Andre Tan
15.00 Special Project: Ainur Turisbek (Kazakhstan), Omelya Atelier
16.00 Elena Burba
16.30 Anna Babenko
17.00 Larisa Lobanova
18.00 Elena Reva
18.30 Julia Aysina
19.30 Annette Gortz (Germany)
15.00 New Names: No 15 Concept by Kate Mikhalyuk & Liuda Loban, Vera Piloyan, Dressaddict by Artem Gryshchenko & Victor Victorov, Hardglam! Nykolenko, Dzhus
16.00 Fresh Fashion: Vlada Nazik, Sonya Monina, LaFress by Mari Sheludko & Valeri Passe
16.30 Yuliya Polishchuk
17.00 Fresh Fashion: Sayya by Lubov Makarenko, Trofymenko
19.00 Ludmila Kislenko
20.00 Idol by Serge Smolin
21.00 Zarina jewellery fashion performance by Roman Bayand
You are not authorized! Only registered and authorized users can add their comments!
When Walls Can Talk
Rights We Didn’t Know We Had
The Path to Europe Begins Here...
Head into 2014 Healthy
|Rights We Didn’t Know We Had
Throughout EuroMaidan much has been made of Ukrainians making a stand for their rights. What exactly those rights are were never clearly defined. Ukraine ratified the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in 1952. The first article of the Declaration states all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights, they are endowed with reason and conscience, and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood. The ousted and overthrown Ukrainian government showed to the world they don’t understand the meaning of these words.
| Kyiv Culture|
Located on Hrushevskoho Street – the epicentre of EuroMaidan violence, home to battles, blazes and barricades – children’s favourite the Academic Puppet Theatre had to shut down in February. Nevertheless, it is getting ready to reopen this March with a renewed repertoire to bring some laughter back to a scene of tragedy. Operating (not manipulating) puppets is a subtle art that can make kids laugh and adults cry. What’s On meets Mykola Petrenko, art director of the Theatre, to learn more about those who pull the strings behind the show.