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On the cover
7 (2014)
Tunnelling Towards Hope

28 February - 6 March 2014

Ukraine History

A Stronghold of Rulers and Rebels

With the recent death toll jumping to nearly 100 and 1,000 injured, Hrushevskoho Street, one of the strongholds of EuroMaidans three-month-long protests, made headlines around the globe. It was here, on 19 January the countrys stand against government corruption, abuse of power, and the violation of human rights turned from peaceful protest to all-out revolution. Having witnessed much over the years, Hrushevskoho is a street with a history, and not only care of recent days.


Ukraine Today
Acelebrity using their status and intelligence to influence public views and opinion is rarely seen in modern society, even less so in Ukraine. Here, the majority of celebs use their time, effort, and money to enhance or further their career rather than put their name to something that can do good for others. However, as EuroMaidan intensifies, some are making themselves heard and they fall either side of the EuroMaidan divide.
It used to be that when rebellion and revolution occurred, the intellectual, creative, and spiritual elite would be front and centre.


Ukrainian Culture

When Walls Can Talk

People have been writing on walls since the dawn of civilisation, we call it graffiti, and ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings. Sometimes it is merely the creator wanting to leave his or her mark; sometimes there is an underlying social or political reason. And it is due to the latter that graffiti has exploded across Kyiv in recent months. Anti dictator messages aside, we peel back a few layers of paint to look at graffiti in the city in general.


Ukraine Travel

Bring Out Your Inner Artist

Koktebel is the perfect place to get in touch with that little burst of inspiration youve been craving all year long. Whether going for the weekend, the week or a whole month long, theres something for everyone in this sunny, seaside town.
Situated between Sudak and Feodosia, in the south-eastern part of the Crimean peninsula, Koktebel is the perfect spot to make a stop.

Cuddled up next to the Black Sea, this resort townlet offers an unforgettable list of things to do and ways to relax for a stunning, sunny holiday. For those looking to include a little culture into the mix, it also happens to be rich in Tatar art, music, and literature, making this the perfect place to spend your summer holiday.
The pebbly beaches of Koktebel are great places to soak up some sun and enjoy the salty splashes of the sea. Furthermore, if youre feeling a little frisky, Koktebel has a 700-metre long nudist beach. Why not make one more attempt at getting that successful full-body tan? 

Craving a Cave?
If you still want to enjoy the waves without actually swimming in them, you can always take a boat trip to see the infamous Golden Gate arched rock, situated nine metres from the shore of Cornelian Bay. On the other hand, if a romantic afternoon by the sea is what youre after, there are plenty more cosy coves along Koktebels numerous beaches from which to choose. 

Ready, set, go!
Do you get bored of the beach? No problem! The mountains are right next door, where you can take an adventure-filled afternoon hike and just enjoy the scenery. You might even want to see how many of the 1,632 different species of butterflies you can spot. Or, if you feel like youve stuffed yourself with too much pilaf and want to burn off a few extra calories, grab a bike and ride the mountain bike trails while taking in all of the clean, dry air.

Heavenly Heights 
To further the topic of nature, the Karadag Natural Reserve is a must-see. As a place that has inspired multiple writers and artists, it is beautifully unique. Karadag (literally translated as Black Mountain) is an ancient volcano. There is also a dolphinarium where you can admire dolphins and sea lions up close, an aquarium and a museum of exotic animals. Koktebel is a nature-lovers paradise, what with all of the different species of bugs, birds, fish and plants. You can even make your way over to the Gliding Centre and do a bit of sightseeing from a different angle; a fabulous activity with an even better history, which you can learn more about at the Museum of Gliding. 

Play it Again Sam 
If you happen to be in Koktebel during the second week of September, youll have the amazing opportunity to fill your soul with the soothing notes of jazz. The Koktebel Jazz Festival is an annual occurrence that takes place on the tranquil shores of the Black Sea. It is also one of the most well-known jazz and world music festivals of Ukraine. 

A-muse-ing Museum
As mentioned earlier, Koktebel is a writers haven. Maximilian Voloshin was a famous Russian poet who lived in Crimea who made his literary mark here. His house, a place where Voloshin once entertained other famous Russian poets, is now open to visitors. It is one of the most visited literary-memorial museums of Ukraine. So step inside Voloshins former abode and make yourself at home. 

The Koktebel region is very well-known for its wineries and cognacs. Specifically, Cognac Kutuzov is one of the most delicious in the country. You can also take a tour at the Koktebel Winery and have a look at their four-and-a-half thousand barrels of Madera Wine!

Crunch, Crackle, Gulp
Further immerse yourself in the Tatar culture by delving into their exquisite cuisine. Koktebel is lined up with cosy cafes as well as Tatar teahouses, where you can introduce your palette to the exciting flavours of traditional Tatar dishes. They include Chiburekki (a fried meat and onion specialty), Sarburma (meat pie), and Samosas, just to name a few. They also complement their tasteful teas with an array of traditional desserts, including the infamous Sheker Keyeks (similar to Turkish Baklava). Yum!

Land of Blue Tops
A mesh of the seaside and forest, this seaside haven is somewhere you can hideaway from the everyday. In no time, you will be captivated by Koktebels exotic mix of cultures and artistic flair. Just make sure you have your camera with you youll want to bring back as much of Koktebels beauty as you can!

Daniela Shmiedlechner

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    Ukraine Truth
    Rights We Didnt Know We Had

    Throughout EuroMaidan much has been made of Ukrainians making a stand for their rights. What exactly those rights are were never clearly defined. Ukraine ratified the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in 1952. The first article of the Declaration states all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights, they are endowed with reason and conscience, and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood. The ousted and overthrown Ukrainian government showed to the world they dont understand the meaning of these words.

    Kyiv Culture

    Pulling Strings
    Located on Hrushevskoho Street the epicentre of EuroMaidan violence, home to battles, blazes and barricades childrens favourite the Academic Puppet Theatre had to shut down in February. Nevertheless, it is getting ready to reopen this March with a renewed repertoire to bring some laughter back to a scene of tragedy. Operating (not manipulating) puppets is a subtle art that can make kids laugh and adults cry. Whats On meets Mykola Petrenko, art director of the Theatre, to learn more about those who pull the strings behind the show.


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