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7 (2014)
Tunnelling Towards Hope


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28 February - 6 March 2014

Ukraine History

A Stronghold of Rulers and Rebels

With the recent death toll jumping to nearly 100 and 1,000 injured, Hrushevskoho Street, one of the strongholds of EuroMaidans three-month-long protests, made headlines around the globe. It was here, on 19 January the countrys stand against government corruption, abuse of power, and the violation of human rights turned from peaceful protest to all-out revolution. Having witnessed much over the years, Hrushevskoho is a street with a history, and not only care of recent days.

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Ukraine Today
Acelebrity using their status and intelligence to influence public views and opinion is rarely seen in modern society, even less so in Ukraine. Here, the majority of celebs use their time, effort, and money to enhance or further their career rather than put their name to something that can do good for others. However, as EuroMaidan intensifies, some are making themselves heard and they fall either side of the EuroMaidan divide.
It used to be that when rebellion and revolution occurred, the intellectual, creative, and spiritual elite would be front and centre.

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Ukrainian Culture

When Walls Can Talk

People have been writing on walls since the dawn of civilisation, we call it graffiti, and ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings. Sometimes it is merely the creator wanting to leave his or her mark; sometimes there is an underlying social or political reason. And it is due to the latter that graffiti has exploded across Kyiv in recent months. Anti dictator messages aside, we peel back a few layers of paint to look at graffiti in the city in general.

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Ukraine Travel

Dnipropetrovsk, founded by Catherine the Great, is one of the biggest cities and power centres in Ukraine, hometown of Yulia Tymoshenko, Leonid Kuchma, Viktor Pinchuk and lots of other movers and shakers, and its situated on a particularly gorgeous stretch of the Dnipro. The longest river quay in Europe is here, which makes Dnipropetrovsk full of waterside recreation in the summer.


Ukraine is lucky enough to be washed by two seas: the Black and the Azov. Its no surprise, then, that south and east are the most popular directions to head in during the summer. If youre heading east, take a glace at Mariupol, the most ancient town in Donetsk. After Crimea, its also the biggest repository of Greek culture in Ukraine, the southern regions of which the ancient Greeks colonised. (Put an is at the end of Mariupol and youve got a Greek name.)


Dramatic Kamyanets-Podilsky has been called the town of seven cultures because of the number of nationalities that lived and contributed to its development and culture. Russians, Ukrainians, Turks, Tatars, Armenians, Jews, Lithuanians and of course Poles have all been through the area, and its perhaps the only place where youll ever see a church with a minaret attached to it an indication of the way the town has fallen under different jurisdictions. (That church is the church of St. Peter & St. Paul, and when the Poles took over the region they put a statue of the Virgin atop the minaret.) What the place is best known for, however, is its gigantic medieval island fortress on a dramatic rock rise carved out by the SmotrychRiver.

You mean you havent been to Lviv yet? Its one of Ukraines true wonders, and a mixture of cultures: a Ukrainian city that used to be Polish and before that was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Its a little piece of Prague or Vienna at the edge of the Carpathians and the most indisputably European city in Ukraine. There are literally thousands of interesting places to see in the city that the Austrians call Lemberg. The historic centre has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1998, and it ought to be, as its so charming and beautiful.

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Easter is approaching, bringing with it a long weekend. What to do? Thats right: Get out of the city, but without getting too far. After all, you dont have that much time. Heres our list of six interesting destinations that arent too far from Kyiv, so that you can make the most of the Easter holidays.


April Fools Day is coming, and you should prepare yourself because its taken pretty seriously in this part of the world, especially in Odessa where the famous Humourina festival takes place every year. Weve worked up some information about the event and the quasi-holiday, to help you get the most from them.


After all the debauchery of the holiday season, both myself and Katyonok (or Kitten as I prefer to call her) were finding it difficult to fasten that top button on our trousers, so, as part of our ongoing mission of Ukrainian discovery, we decided to head to Truskyavets for a long weekend as wed heard it is rapidly becoming the place to detox and get in shape.


When it comes to skiing, many in Ukraine look to neighbouring countries like Poland or Slovakia, and even further afield to Western Europe and North America, since the resorts in those countries are generally considered superior to those in Ukraine. But winter sports tourism is developing rapidly here, and domestic resorts are moving fast to meet the demand If you've never visited them, or have been away for a while, they might be worth checking out this year. The Carpathian mountains are spectacular all year round, and especially in winter. A number of Carpathian resorts are offering a complete range of winter sports facilities, and the apres ski options you'll find are unique. You can kick back with a glass of mulled wine in the Alps, but only in Ukraine can you drink it to accompany Hut-sul cuisine in a cosy wooden kolyba, or pub.

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Ukraine Truth
Rights We Didnt Know We Had

Throughout EuroMaidan much has been made of Ukrainians making a stand for their rights. What exactly those rights are were never clearly defined. Ukraine ratified the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in 1952. The first article of the Declaration states all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights, they are endowed with reason and conscience, and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood. The ousted and overthrown Ukrainian government showed to the world they dont understand the meaning of these words.


Kyiv Culture

Pulling Strings
Located on Hrushevskoho Street the epicentre of EuroMaidan violence, home to battles, blazes and barricades childrens favourite the Academic Puppet Theatre had to shut down in February. Nevertheless, it is getting ready to reopen this March with a renewed repertoire to bring some laughter back to a scene of tragedy. Operating (not manipulating) puppets is a subtle art that can make kids laugh and adults cry. Whats On meets Mykola Petrenko, art director of the Theatre, to learn more about those who pull the strings behind the show.

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